27th May 2019 - Andrew

We sleep long and wake late to the sound of waves, wind and birds. We get some coffee but are too shy to demand breakfast (foolishly polite for this place).

We have no plan for today but we slowly wind our way to the next town and park by the ocean - we buy some basics (coffee and biscuits) and get a hiking map of the island. Then walk up through the quiet village - the restaurant we plan to eat at is still closed (Sunday) but we find a local taverna with a leafy balcony overlooking the ocean and eat some simple food with a very tannin red wine. The owner speaks little english but we get along easily enough.

Our hotel owner (Thea) pulls up alongside us on the street and tells us off for not having breakfast - to send guests out into the world hungry offends her sensibilities. On our return journey we drive beyond our rooms to the river canyon - there is great deep fresh water pools and waterfalls - we will return to rock hop and swim.

After lunch we sleep through the heat of the day - I massage Cara’s sore back and legs. We stay in for the night - watching the spectacular sunset from our restaurant balcony and drink a great minerally wine we brought from Santorini.

We write in this journal, send some messages home (all is well there) and write a trip advisor review. As darkness falls we eat, drink a little more wine and ouzo. Then to bed to read and sleep.

27th May 2019 - Cara

We may be too shy to demand breakfast but it isn’t made easy for us. Only the non-english speaking greek cook and Thea’s slightly surly and unhelpful son are there - he doesn't offer breakfast he just asks us if we want anything. The restaurant has indoor space under our rooms but is mostly an outside terrace overlooking the sea. Between Thea’s and the cliffs above the sea is a small stretch of land covered with reeds and small garden plots. Quite ramshackle and lovely. It is a beautiful sunset spot and we have a favourite table right on the edge rear of the building. The terrace has a trellis with a grape vine growing over it which shades the back half.

There are several cats which hang out in this area. Over the next few days we befriended one which we name slasher. It is little and beautiful - with the colouring Mojo had - brindle and white. Unlike the other cats it is friendly even when we don’t have food although play quickly develops into clawing if one doesn’t pay attention.

The village we go to is Armenistis - a pretty tourist village (although it’s not in season so very quiet) with requisite harbour and two lovely sand beaches. Unusual here - most beaches are pebbly.

At the tourist shop where we buy a map the proprietor tells us there is no laundromat here - maybe in Agios Kirykos? Thea later scoffs at this - there is no laundromat in Ikaria, She will do a wash for us which is great as we were counting on washing clothes.

26th May 2019